Marchesa is always going to be a resource for voluminous gowns, intricate embroideries...

The collection itself was a reminder of how untethered Marchesa is from the rest of the market. The big talking points of the New York shows—i.e., a shift toward brides ordering gowns online; brides resisting the “princess dress” cliché; and a focus on low-key bridal looks you can rewear—simply don’t apply to Marchesa.

Its bride isn’t looking for a suit, at least not for her ceremony. Marchesa is always going to be a resource for voluminous gowns, intricate embroideries, and an unabashedly feminine, ethereal quality.

To wit, the Spring 2020 lineup was almost entirely gowns, each with a couture embellishment: 3-D petals, crystal embroideries, gigantic bows, stacked tulle rosettes.

During a preview, Marchesa’s design director pointed out that even the biggest gowns were surprisingly lightweight: Every layer had been streamlined, from the underskirts to the corsets to the beads and crystals. Just because the Marchesa bride wants a ball gown doesn’t mean she’s willing to sacrifice comfort.