RESORT 2026 by Thom Browne: The Balance Between Couture, Wearability, and the Timeless Legacy

Thom Browne masterfully navigates the burgeoning "prep revival" with characteristic aplomb, asserting that for him, it's not a passing fad but a timeless, inherent part of his design ethos. As forecasters predict a resurgence of the all-American look—from mid-century country clubs to '80s cinematic influences—Browne affirms,

"I'm always in that world because I love the timelessness of it and the ease." He champions "real clothes being worn in real ways," emphasizing their longevity and sustainable appeal.

His latest collections for men and women vividly illustrate this perspective. Signature Thom Browne crests, adorning jackets and coats, encapsulate the prep lifestyle with embroidered tennis racquets, a swimmer, an anchor, and the year 1965 (his birth year). Pieces like an exceptional hand-knit argyle cardigan, a sleek green technical Cordura rain jacket, and various Bermuda shorts are perfectly suited for country club gatherings or poolside parties. Even the jeans reflect this meticulous approach, crafted from selvedge denim at Japan's premier factory—a nod to the Japanese obsession with "Amekaji," or American style.

Yet, even as he expands the TB repertoire, Browne's unwavering devotion to meticulous tailoring remains paramount. His iconic gray suit, custom plaid tweeds, and silk mogadors continue to define his precision. Playful interpretations include a gray skirt suit topped with a maillot-shaped corset, and for the true enthusiasts, suits featuring trompe l'oeil effect bikinis via intarsia or embroidery.

The Resort 2026 collection marks a celebratory milestone for Thom Browne: the 10th anniversary of his Hector handbag, the dog-shaped accessory Browne introduced in 2016 as an homage to his adorable dachshund of the same name. Browne noted that while 10 years ago, it was kind of a "joke" making the bag, it has since become a novelty and brand icon that people come to him for season after season. "It's so personal, so it's nice to play with," he added.

His plays on Hector were front and center in handbags, alongside his smart, interchangeable Bermuda bags. "Some people you know don't realize, but the great thing about this Bermuda bag is investing in it once. Every season there are covers that you can buy that will go with that one handle. It was an easy way of basically getting a new bag every season," he explained.

And while the designer's dog was also present in adorable seasonal "Day in the Life of Hector" embroideries and toile and watercolor prints, the overarching message of Browne's very good men's and women's resort collection stemmed from reemphasizing the idea of American preppy tailoring — where Browne's collections consistently star and what customers come to him for.

Like his latest pre-collections, his designs had a more youthful, layered element that didn’t sacrifice his distinct tailored look. For instance, there were corset tops cut in the shapes of classic bathing suits (here cropped at the waist). Browne said they paid homage to the maillots he saw girls wearing while growing up, and he whipped them into a gray tailoring fabric with gold bullion tennis embroidery; in silk mogador intarsia'd into his tweed fabrics, or with a silver anchor embroidery — a sweet, subtle ode to Hector’s tin anniversary.

Browne explained that the corset has become increasingly important for his stores, noting he often works with the construction beyond his fantastical couture looks or custom Met ensembles. Keeping this ethos of balancing what the customer desires with his meld of sportif prep sportswear and tailoring was key to resort, also seen through a khaki Mac with sport coat dress or cricket sweaters with tweedy tailoring.

It nicely extended into men’s with technical ripstop and down jackets, grounded sneakers and three standout Japanese denim styles: a back-buckled jean with white cashmere seersucker jacket; a pleated skirt, and denim jacket. There was even a varsity jacket featuring motifs of the collection à la a “world of Thom Browne” crest.

Browne added he loved the "quintessential idea of clothing really being worn, used and knocked around, which is very reminiscent of good American sportswear and the preppy idea of wearing clothes until they basically fall off," as seen through his washed silk Mogador repp stripe styles that nicely balanced the idea of real-life wardrobing with the designer’s uniform look.