Sep 222 min read

Missoni SPRING 2025 READY-TO-WEAR

Filippo Grazioli's Missoni: A Zigzag Symphony of Artistic Defiance

For Spring, Filippo Grazioli embarked on a bold artistic journey, unleashing his inner eccentric and fearlessly exploring the iconic Missoni zigzag pattern with an avant-garde verve that felt both instinctive and urgent.

Backstage, Grazioli revealed his desire to reignite the brand's bold artistic spirit and playful beginnings, which he felt had been overlooked. He emphasized the deep cultural significance of the zigzag motif, aiming to honor its primal rhythm throughout the collection. Drawing inspiration from Missoni's archives, he unearthed a vibrant striped collection from 1990, originally designed to celebrate the World Cup, and reprised it to enhance the collection's chromatic spark.

Grazioli's tour de force centered around the work of American artist Ruth Asawa, renowned for her modernist looped-wire sculptures. He translated Asawa's organic forms into a multitude of spiky 3D knitted pieces, featuring triangular shapes that undulated, protruded, and unfolded in accordion-pleated spirals and delicate mille-feuilles. These dynamic forms adorned tubular tops, minidresses, and leggings, creating a whirlwind of kinetic energy.

Other spectacular pieces included dresses crafted from knotted ribbons, tunics covered in oversized sequin embellishments, and clingy jacquard sheaths adorned with haphazardly placed fringes, reminiscent of colorful brushstrokes. The collection showcased Missoni's unparalleled knitwear expertise, pushing the boundaries of expressive possibilities.

Grazioli's unwavering focus on the zigzag motif, while seemingly excessive, was infused with such single-minded conviction that it radiated a sense of joyful defiance. The collection delivered electrifying mixed signals and jolts of energy, ensuring that the audience remained captivated and far from indifferent. This audacious approach, brimming with artistic boldness, proved to be a remarkable achievement.

Missoni Spring Summer 2025 Women’s collection makes the essentiality and the vibrancy of primary colours coexist, in an energic and elementary way.

The garments, fitted and lightweight yet voluminous and sculptural, dance on the body.

Silhouettes and volumes blend and move within space, defined only by the iconic zigzag lines. The play-off of masculine and feminine is rhythmical. Colours, lines, and textures are minimized, yet they emerge strong, full of a renewed energy.