Coco Chanel: The General of Style

Coco Chanel, a force of nature, understood the power of a well-crafted uniform. She was at war, not with men, but with societal expectations, aiming to liberate women from their stifling constraints. Her weapon? Chic. Her strategy? Charm. Chanel knew the power of respect, even for the adversary. She loved men, and her collections and personal life reflected this affection. She acknowledged the financial support of her early lovers, those who enabled her to launch her own empire.

Borrowing from the Boys
Chanel, a master of subversion, drew inspiration from men's wardrobes. Jersey, tweed, buttons, and edging – these elements, borrowed from uniforms, became the hallmarks of her style. The cardigan without a collar, the faceted rectangular perfume bottles – each piece a testament to her genius for blending the masculine with the feminine.


Beyond Fashion: A Revolution of Style
Chanel's designs were not just about aesthetics; they embodied a revolution in how women moved through the world. Her creations, imbued with quality, comfort, and timeless proportions, empowered women to embrace their bodies without revealing them. She believed in mobility as power, a concept deeply ingrained in her creations.

A General's Legacy
Chanel, while not the greatest couturier of her time (that title belongs to Madeleine Vionnet and Cristobal Balenciaga), became the greatest fashion creator of all time. She was a strong, decisive leader who taught a battalion of designers the power of style.

A Masterful Alchemy
The "little black dress," cascades of pearls, pumps, and her own image – each a testament to Chanel's mastery of logic and beauty. Her creations were a paradox: masculine and feminine, severe and charming, simple yet luxurious, superior yet submissive. This masterful blend of seemingly contradictory elements defined her unique style.
The Influence of Childhood
Chanel's childhood, marked by indifference, lack of love, and a challenging upbringing, profoundly shaped her creative vision. Unlike Dior or Saint Laurent, who found inspiration in their mothers, her muses were cavalry officers and school friends from wealthy families. This influence instilled in her a desire for sustainable social growth, a distinct element that set her apart from her contemporaries.

A Legacy of Inspiration
Chanel's wisdom about love, life, and fashion is beautifully encapsulated in her oft-quoted axiom:
"If you are born without wings, do not prevent them from growing."
Her story is a testament to the power of resilience, creativity, and a relentless pursuit of individual liberation. She was not simply a fashion designer; she was a revolutionary, a general leading a charge for style, empowerment, and a more fulfilling life for women.





Coco Chanel, a woman of unparalleled style and ambition, moved in circles of artistic brilliance. She was friends with Picasso and Diaghilev, the flamboyant impresario of the Russian Seasons, and even had a romantic encounter with Igor Stravinsky. She even designed costumes for Cocteau's productions of Antigone and Orpheus.
While contemporaries like Paul Poiret and Elsa Schiaparelli embraced the whims of inspiration—Poiret with his oriental exoticism, Schiaparelli with her surrealist shock factor—Chanel remained steadfast in her own principles. She believed that fashion's purpose was to serve its wearer, not to be a spectacle. A telephone hat or a mincing-only skirt were anathema to her.
"An elegant woman should make a purchase in such a way that she is not ridiculed by housewives," she declared. "Who laughs is always right." This seemingly philistine, uncompromising view was, in fact, the foundation of her timeless style.
A Perfume Revolution
Chanel's fortieth birthday marked the release of her first perfume, Chanel No. 5. Unlike the overtly sentimental fragrances of her time, with names like "Chinese Night" or "Crying Kisses," Chanel's perfume was simply Chanel No. 5. The name reflected the number of the trial perfume she ultimately chose, a testament to her dedication to creating something truly exceptional.

The Science of Scent
Chanel, in collaboration with her perfumer Ernest Beaux, embraced the latest scientific advancements to create a revolutionary perfume. Beaux, experimenting with aldehydes and synthetic fragrances, crafted a modern masterpiece in 1921. Chanel No. 5, with its 80 components including artificial jasmine, was an unparalleled blend of intensity and longevity, surpassing the limitations of natural fragrances.
A Woman of Substance
"I don't want the smell of roses or lilies of the valley," Chanel stated. "I need a compound perfume. It's a paradox. But a woman who smells of flowers in a room is an artificial being. Perhaps a natural-smelling perfume must be artificially created."
Chanel's revolutionary perfume, like her entire approach to fashion, defied convention. It was a bold statement about the power of innovation and the need for authenticity. She refused to be a prisoner of tradition, choosing instead to embrace the future, a future where style was both sophisticated and enduring.

While her competitors, like Madame Grès, Vionnet, and Lanvin, catered to a select few, Coco Chanel became a global phenomenon. She possessed an uncanny ability to understand what would captivate society, building a legend around herself that resonated with women across Europe and America.
Her personal and professional life intertwined, creating an irresistible image that newspapers and fashion magazines eagerly replicated, boosting her brand's success. Chanel's life in the 1920s and 1930s was a captivating blend of bohemian and bourgeois, romanticism and rigorous work ethic.
She dined with artists in chic Parisian restaurants, yet the next morning she was back in her studio, discussing low-cut dresses with her dressmaker. She funded Jean Cocteau's treatment for opium addiction and went salmon fishing with England's wealthiest man, the Duke of Westminster, in Scotland. She engaged in philosophical discussions with the poet Pierre Reverdy, only to play cards with Winston Churchill the following day.

A Hunger for Brilliance and Comfort
The hardships of her youth instilled in her a deep yearning for brilliance and comfort. Her apartment above her salon was a testament to this desire, adorned with Chinese Coromandel screens, crystal chandeliers, and 18th-century furniture. Her estate on the Riviera resembled a Hollywood star's villa, a world away from her impoverished beginnings.
In 1931, Hollywood producer Samuel Goldwyn offered her a million dollars a year to dress his stars, an unheard-of sum for the time. While she needed the money for advertising, the collaboration failed. Chanel's austere, fiery style clashed with Goldwyn's vision, particularly for aging diva Gloria Swanson, who found it too austere.
The Revenge of the Queen
Chanel, the queen of fashion, retaliated in her own way. She refused to appear in any films, choosing instead to be captured through the lenses of Vogue photographers Georges Hoyningen-Huene, Horst P. Horst, and Cecil Beaton.
At 53, she was even more captivating than she had been at 30. Her features, softened by time and her refusal to pluck her eyebrows to a thread, radiated melancholy tenderness.

A Soulful Approach to Jewelry
While fashion jewelry existed, Chanel breathed life into it. Her creations were no longer mere imitations of real jewelry, but artistic expressions, prioritizing aesthetic impact over financial reality. The feminine triumphed over the masculine.
Chanel herself continued to play with jewelry, wearing pearls and emerald necklaces gifted by lovers like the Grand Duke Dmitry and the Duke of Westminster. Her own costume jewelry, however, became a testament to her enduring style, fading into the background as she embodied the very essence of luxury and allure.
A World on the Brink
By the late 1930s, Chanel felt the world on the brink of collapse. The economic crisis and the looming threat of war weighed heavily on her. In 1936, striking workers suspended her from her work in her own atelier, a personal insult that the peasant queen could not bear.
Her life, a tapestry woven with threads of luxury and hardship, creativity and rebellion, foreshadowed the challenges that lay ahead. Chanel, a woman of unwavering ambition and undeniable talent, was about to face her greatest test yet.

Comments