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Christian Dior FALL 2024 READY-TO-WEAR

In the Dior AW24 collection Maria Grazia Chiuri glanced back to find the future, returning to and reinterpreting the origins of the House's ready-to-wear heritage, which started out as the distinct Miss Dior line in 1967. It was a period of transition, not just with the increasing shift from haute couture to off-the-peg, but also societally, as female emancipation took flight. The opening look in the show catches that pulse, nodding to the House's tailoring prowess while rethinking it with a slouchy ease perfect for a modern Parisienne.

Ready-to-wear realism met couture-level luxuriance in the glittering eveningwear that lit up the Dior AW24 runway when Maria Grazia Chiuri accented or fully drenched long and short after-eight looks alike in everything from narrow rows of metallic faceted flickers to crystal flowers and flipping fringe in glossy gold bugle beads.

A logo dating from the inception of the House's original ready-to-wear line, named Miss Dior, was Maria Grazia Chiuri's jumping off point for the eponymous wording placements that resonated like a manifesto on the Dior AW24 runway.

It was the first time a prestigious house had employed a logo as a decorative device on clothing and accessories, and its use here echoes that significant first step away from the confines of the couture salons in 1967, a time of widespread societal change when women were demanding and attaining new roles in a rapidly modernizing world. A more linear version of the logo also appears as a repeat pattern on silk twill shirts and bags.

Referencing the House's early years in ready-to-wear with the Miss Dior line, the Dior AW24 collection by Maria Grazia Chiuri is redolent with stylistic whispers of the 60s and 70s.

Discernable without being literal, the vibe came through in pieces such as a slim trouser suit, cape coat, short skirts, and a jacket with a stand collar and buttoned tabs. Knee-high boots and another hybrid stretch version incorporating a studded Mary Jane element also alluded to the era-appropriate aesthetic.



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